We Move on Towards Peterborough
May 19th--25thThursday, 19th May
I didn't sleep at all last night. I was going to get ready for bed, when I realised we were on a list. Trev had already gone to bed and was snoring contentedly, so there was no help available there! The river level had dropped, and I was worried that it might continue to do so, so stayed up all night. It didn't get any worse, and, when Trev woke up around 6.00, I went to bed! I woke up around 10.00 and we set off. We were both glad to leave this spot. It wasn't very attractive.
There are so many locks on the Nene, roughly one every two miles. So there's never a moment to do a job, such as hoovering or even making a cup of coffee in between locks. Mooring at the locks is difficult, short pontoons at a difficult angle to the lock gate, making it awkward to get a good position to enter the lock. When Trev backs the boat up to get a good run at the lock, the current makes it difficult to align the boat. This is all going to take some getting used to! We were warned by a number of friends that the Nene is hard work, and we can see why.
The countryside is very flat--as we expected--and there is a strong wind blowing, which is making steering difficult. We eventually moored up just before Wellingborough, almost opposite the prison........ A crowd of cattle was interested in our manoeuvres!
Friday, 20th May
Ghastly weather today--it started off OK, though the wind was there from the beginning. But in the afternoon the rain lashed down and we were all soaked. Fortunately Gail is a hardy soul, and took it all in good part. We looked for the water point in Wellingborough, as there was one shown in the guide, but all we could find was a locked box. I asked a passing pedestrian, who said that things were only just getting back to normal after the floods two years ago..........
So we continued to Irthlingborough, where there is a good mooring just by Rushden & Diamonds Football Club Ground--very handy if you're a supporter and it's Saturday. The guide showed that all facilities were available here: water, rubbish disposal, toilet pump out, showers, oh the list is endless, better than the Hilton really. Except that the pump out wasn't working and I couldn't unlock the door to the rubbish disposal point. Well, at least we got water, and we had lunch. For such a slim person, Gail really eats! She'd brought all sorts of supplies in her bag, just in case we didn't have enough!
Now the heavens opened, and we were drenched. We were looking out for moorings at Woodford, but somehow missed them and had to continue in the lashing rain to Denford, where we managed to attach ourselves to the riverbank and collapse inside. We lit the fire and slowly dried out. It stopped raining at last, and we walked up to The Cock Inn and had an excellent meal.
Saturday, 21st May
The sun was out and it was glorious as the dawn broke, (another of those nights when I couldn't get off to sleep, caused this time by excessive eating the night before, I think!) but, by the time we set off the rain was already starting, though the one good thing was the wind had stopped. We went through Denford lock and on to Thrapston, and it managed to stay dry. Pearson's Guide said that there was a mooring at Thrapston, and indeed it was right. In fact, if I hadn't read the guide, we would never have spotted it, as it is at right angles to and immediately before the nine arch bridge which spans the river. Getting in was the easy bit....getting out backwards against the current will be a test of Trev's steering skills. We had this spot all to ourselves--for a while. Then a plastic boat came in--I'm afraid we narrowboaters call them tupperware boats, but then they call us coffin dwellers. Its engine sounded more like a souped up 50cc motorbike than a boat, and the language emanating from the occupants had to be some of the worst we've ever heard on the water. I couldn't really work out why they were all so cross with each other and themselves, given that they appeared to have come out for a picnic. However, the heavens opened, the rain descended in stair rods, it thundered and the lightning flashed and drowned all of the obscenities, though not the occupants of the boat. No comment! Eventually they set off and didn't return. Later another tupperware boat came in, with just a single boater on it, and we didn't hear a thing from him. I hope he could say the same of us!
Sunday, 22nd May
The mooring here at Thrapston seems to be new, and it will be vey nice when it's finished. Unfortunately, at the moment it's just bare earth and this has rapidly turned into a mud bath in the rain. Our shoes are covered in it, to the point where they weigh about four times as much as usual! There is a water point here too, and the water comes out so slowly that it took one and a half hours to fill our tank! Luckily we weren't going any where, and there was no one else waiting to use it. Two Environmental Agency (In future referred to as EA--I can't keep writing Environmental Agency, it's too long) men were at Thrapston, putting up a new notice board, and Trev gave them each a cup of tea. They seemed to be really enjoying their work, and it was good to meet them.
Gail's mum and her husband came to pick Gail up at 11.00, and they couldn't come to see the boat, it was too filthy for them to reach it! We said a fond farewell to Gail, and set off. I'd been dreading this bit, as we had to back out of the cul-de-sac and back in to the main river, against the current. We would be running parallel to the bridge arches and, if the current pushed us along, we would drift broadside on to the arches. I stood at the front like Boadicea with a boat hook to fend us off--well I don't suppose Boadicea ever had a boat hook, but you get my drift--excuse the pun! But, as usual and of course, I should never have worried! My knight in shining armour was at the helm, and he turned us round with great skill, dexterity and aplomb! We backed upstream, got the right angle for the bridge arch and sailed through without a hitch.
We carried on downstream to Islip lock. The water was rushing over the top of the lock and the force of it was such that we had to tie up the boat before we started to open the bottom gate, or we would have been washed under the guillotine before it was fully opened and have become wedged. This river certainly has a mind of its own. And it hadn't finished with us yet. Just around the corner, there was a VERY LOW BRIDGE. We had to slow right down and take the chimney and the hose pipe off the roof to get under it. But the next bridge was even lower, and I just scraped the top of the bag of compost bag on it. In fact, of course, although the bridges are low, the reason there is less headroom than usual is because the water level is high due to all the rain.
We arrived at Titchmarsh Lock and there were our two EA friends again, called out because of the high water level. We shared the lock with a boat which had had to give up on trying to get under the low bridge where we'd had the argument with the compost bag, they couldn't get under it. So they had turned round and were coming back down the river. The EA men had dropped the water level by eight inches and now the boat was going to turn round and try the bridge again. We were lucky to have arrived at the bridge when we did, after the water level had been dropped, or we would never have got under it. We eventually moored up below Wadenhoe church, out in the country, in a very pretty spot.
Monday, 23rd, Tuesday, 24th, Wednesday, 25th May
Much better weather today. Although it's still windy, the sun was out for part of the day and there was only a sprinkling of rain. The countryside is much prettier now, though the locks are no easier! We came through a very attractive lock at Barnwell Mill. Here we met our two EA friends again!
There were some slightly longer stretches between locks on this stretch and this gave us time to enjoy the scenery. We moored up at Oundle, though not with ease. The guide showed mooring between the two bridges, and we naively thought there was going to be some mooring rings or posts--we canallers are used to this sort of luxury. However there was nothing and so we thought it must be through the next bridge. There was nothing there either, so we turned round--there was a nice wide bit of river--and went back through the bridge. I scrambled up the bank and we moored alongside the river bank. That was all there was--just a high bank. However, it's a very nice spot, and close to the town.
We walked in to town and were impressed with Oundle. Most of the houses are built of stone and it really is a delightful place. It is the home of Oundle School, a public school, and the pupils walk around town looking most studious! It feels a safe place and several people smiled as we went along. Of course, they might have been feeling sorry for us, but I choose to believe they were being friendly! The Talbot Hotel in the centre of town is four hundred years old and is said to be built with stone from nearby Fotheringhay Castle, where Mary, Queen of Scots was executed. Moreover, it is said that the staircase now in the Talbot is the very one she walked down to be executed. So there! We ate at The Talbot, but found the meal indifferent.
Our intention had been to move on on Tuesday, but Trev received news that a colleague from his teaching days had died and he wants to go to the funeral. So he has arranged to hire a car to go to Nuneaton for a day and so we will stay here for a few days.
When we get started again, we shall visit Fotheringhay, the next place along the river, and also Wansford. Then we shall have Peterborough in our sights. That is where we let the river Nene run its course to the sea at the Wash, and we go on to the Middle Level. We shall probably stay in Peterborough for a couple of nights, and then it's out to the Middle Level, where the real fun begins! This is where there is a very tight bend at Whittlesey, and also the 60' lock--remember we're 70'! The lock which gives access to the Middle Level is called Stanground Lock and we have to give the lock keeper forty-eight hours notice of our intention to use it. Friends of ours who went through it last week said they had to go through backwards!!!!!Last week I had some really nice emails from readers I've never met, including one from Australia. I'm delighted so many people visit the site and get pleasure from it. It's particularly pleasing that I can offer help to new boaters, especially from the viewpoint of a complete novice when I started boating. All we'd ever had was a week's holiday before we ordered our boat to be built!
Another thing which I hadn't realised until I was in Oundle library, surfing the net, was that my site was mentioned in "Waterways World" magazine in March 2004! Im' really sorry that I missed the reference, especially since I take the magazine every month!
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