Friday, 3rd & Saturday, 4th June
We were up early today and off to make sure that we arrived at Salter's Lode Lock in time for our appointment. The mooring at Fox's Boatyard was perfectly safe and peaceful, but not very scenic! After a nifty bit of steering by Trev to get us out of the yard, we were off.

First we stopped in March to buy a paper and post a letter. It looked very pretty from the waterside, though people had said that it wasn't a very attractive town. Then onwards. The scenery was better today. The banks were lower and we could see more of the countryside which gradually became more interesting, not as featureless as yesterday. The first lock was at Marmont Priory, and I rang ahead to say we were on our way, though I don't think this was really necessary. There is a lock keeper there who did the lock for us. Whilst we were there, the lockie from Salter's Lode Lock arrived so we were introduced to him. Just as we were leaving the lock, "Autumn Glory" was getting ready to come in to the lock from the opposite direction. We had met its owners, Dave & Jen, a lot last year, as we were all doing the same route. Unfortunately, as is often the way with these chance meetings, we couldn't stop and talk, just a few quick sentences and then off again.

After Marmont Priory, the scenery improved considerably and we went through two delightful villages, Outwell & Upwell, which stretched for some miles along both sides of the river banks. There were pretty cottages, pubs and shops and it was quite nice to see some habitation again! There was a sign by a farm advertising asparagus for sale. Trev and I are quite partial to a bit of the old sparrowgrass, so we pulled up and I went to buy, but there was a second sign saying "Sold Out More Tomorrow"! So we carried on and arrived eventually at Salter's Lode Lock, two hours early. Better than two hours late.........

We moored up and went to look around to see what lay in store for us. We could see the tidal Ouse on the other side of the lock, very low and muddy in the usual manner of tidal rivers. When we walked along to a vantage point, we could also see Denver Sluice about a quarter of a mile away. Not so far as I thought, and certainly not as frightening as I had expected. At Denver, the Ouse goes to the left and the New Bedford River, which is tidal, goes to the right. There is a big sandbank at the junction, and one is warned to take care not to get stuck on it. Last year, a honeymoon couple didn't listen to the lock keeper's advice and spent two days (and nights) stuck on it, until there was a sufficiently high tide to wash them off again. I don't suppose they minded too much!

Eventually the lock keeper called us in to the lock. Now, this is the lock about which we had been told on several occasions we were too long to fit in. Oh don't people make up stories! At one end, there are two sets of gates, and, if you're a long boat, they use the outer gates. Simple isn't it?

I think they also sometimes wait until the water levels have equalised and open both top and bottom gates, but not in our case. So, in we went, filled in some paper work and then the gates were shut behind us. The lockie opened the bottom gate a tweak, and let the water levels equalise, and then he opened it fully and there was the tidal Ouse in front of us. The difference in levels was only about eighteen inches.

The tide was late turning, and so the lock keeper said we had a choice. We could either go out in to the river and sit on a mudbank until the water level came up, or we could stay in the lock until there was enough water for us to go. I chose the latter! I think Trev would have enjoyed the former. So, we waited for about twenty minutes, and then the lock keeper conferred with the lockie at Denver Sluice, and between them they decided that there was enough water and we could go. The lock keeper's last piece of advice was not to worry if we got stuck on the mud as we went along. The tide would come up and wash us off eventually!

So out we went, full throttle to complete the right turn on to the river before we hit the opposite bank.

It only took about five minutes and then we were at Denver Sluice. There was a moment when we were on a mudbank, but Trev persevered and we came off again. The lock gates were open for us and in we went.

The lock keeper again opened the gate a couple of inches and let the water levels equalise and then he opened it fully and the view was breath taking. It was very wide, lots of boats, including six waiting to come through the lock, and huge, open views.

The next day the weather was awful. The rain lashed down, the wind howled, so we battened down the hatches and stayed put. In the evening the weather improved and we walked to the Jenyn's Arms for a meal.

Sunday, 5th June
Today we cruised as far as Ely. The scenery actually isn't much better than before, despite my excitement at the view at Denver Sluice. The river is wide and we can get a move on, but the banks are high, and, again, if I stand on the roof, there's not a lot to see. However, Ely made up for all of that. It's a beautiful city, really only a small town, but given city status by virtue of its cathedral. There are some delightful old houses, and interesting buildings. There's also a lively river scene, especially at the weekend, when all of the pleasure cruisers come out to play. They tootle up and down the river, and it reminded me of when one is abroad in a hot country in the evening and all the locals come out to walk up and down and meet each other and see what everyone else is doing!

I think we were lucky to get a mooring here at the weekend, particularly with our length. Someone we had met earlier had suggested that we wouldn't be very popular if we moored in Ely at the weekend, as we would take up the space of three pleasure cruisers. However, there was no apparent hostility! A little while after we had arrived, a trip boat came by, called Liberty Belle! Then I remembered, when we were having our boat built, I had received an email from the owner of this boat, asking me, tongue in cheek, how I dared to call my boat Liberty Belle! He said his was the one and only Liberty Belle. We had swopped a couple of emails, and that had been the end of it. However, Steve, the owner, turned round when he saw us, much to the surprise of his passengers, and came and had a quick chat.

Monday, 6th June
Today we had visitors. Janet and Patrick came to see us. We met Janet in Cyprus last year, and it is her apartment we are going to rent this year when we go again. They live in Suffolk and came over to spend the day with us. We met them in town and had an excellent lunch at The Lamb--6.95 for two courses, in case you think we're spending too much! They came back to the boat for the obligatory tour and then we sat out, as it was a pleasant afternoon. They were good company and we hope to go and visit them soon, if we can sort out the transport.

Tuesday, 7th June
Today we moved on along the Ouse to its junction, at Pope's Corner, with the Cam. Here we turned left on to the Cam and made our way towards Cambridge. Now the scenery is improving. Although it's still flat--and all of this trip will be flat, we know that!--there is somehow more to look at. The occasional house, or a farmer in a field, even people walking or cycling. No fishermen, thank heavens, it's the close season until June 15th. We moored up for the night at Clayhithe, and painted the side of the boat where the new blacking had become scratched. I've never seen so many people using the towpath. All evening, there was constant activity, walkers, joggers, cyclists, dog walkers. The people round here must be incredibly fit!

Wednesday, 8th June
We went on to Cambridge today. We filled up with water and and had to turn round as this is the end of the navigable Cam. There is a lock to bar the way, and on the other side of the lock is The Backs, a very pretty stretch of the river where the students go punting. It seems so timeless, it's almost soporific in its dreaminess and tranquillity.

I ruminated on the privilege of such a life as an undergraduate. Oh yes, I know there's work to be done, and lots of it, and it was a hard won fight to get in. But what a wonderful existence for three years, living in such hallowed courts, studying a favourite subject, having a great social life and not a lot else to worry about.

We enjoyed our visit. It's a lovely town, there's wonderful architecture, great shopping and a good feel. And there was a market, so we got our asparagus in the end! Then we sat at a pavement cafe, watching the world go by and drinking a bottle of wine. Footsore, we made our way back to the boat and enjoyed our asparagus whilst the dinner cooked.

Mooring in Cambridge is like finding hen's teeth. There is an area which is designated for forty-eight hours only, but it seemed as though most of the boats had been there for forty-eight years. One woman I spoke to said she couldn't move her boat because the engine didn't work..... Apparently this overstaying of mooring is a big problem and owners have been served with notices to move, but they take no notice, and it seems that the authorities lack the will or the power to enforce it. It makes it difficult for visitors to moor up.

Thursday, 8th June
We left Cambridge today and moved back along the Cam. The weather has been glorious for the last couple of days. We had the river all to ourselves. There are only two locks on this stretch, and both are electrically operated. We moved on apace, it's great to have it all to ourselves. We moored up at Dimmock Cote Bridge, on a GOBA mooring. That stands for Great Ouse Boating Association, and we joined the club for a year, as it gives us the opportunity to use their moorings. We had seen this mooring when we went along to Cambridge and thought it looked a nice spot, and now we're moored up here. It's lovely, except for the traffic on the main road over the bridge...But I've got the washing hanging outside to dry, we have a barbecue ready for tonight, and life is pretty good!